An easy Easter brunch for six

If you're planning ahead for Easter weekend and don't fancy doing the traditional big Easter Day lunch how about a brunch instead? Here's my menu for this time of year ...

I always try and lay on some kind of fruit compote or fruit salad but it’s a bit early for berries so I’ve suggested a dried fruit compote made with redbush tea and served with rich, creamy yoghurt.

The centrepiece is a twist on a traditional kedgeree from my book Food, Wine and Friends, made with smoked salmon - a real crowd pleaser and to finish, a couple of recipes for home-made muffins which I suggest should be freshly baked by any willing helper you can rope in. Or simply buy in some croissants, re-heat them and serve them with some good breads and toast and a range of interesting jams.

You can also set up your own juice bar (see my Beginners’ guide to juicing) or make my simple St Clement’s Punch.

Menu:

Dried fruit compote with redbush tea, cinnamon and honey
Smoked salmon kedgeree
Banana and honey muffins
Bacon, onion and Cheddar muffins
St Clement's Punch

Dried fruit compote with redbush tea, cinnamon and honey

I always have South African redbush (Rooibos) tea in the cupboard. It makes a great caffeine-free alternative to ordinary tea. You can also use it to make this delicious fruit compote.
Serves 6

3 redbush teabags
400g mixed dried fruit (I’d suggest about 100g each dried apricots*, prunes and figs, 50g dried apple or pineapple and 50g raisin mix which you’ll usually find in the fruit and vegetable section of the supermarket)
1-2 tbsp runny honey
1 stick of cinnamon
4 cloves
1 thinly pared slice of orange rind
50g whole almonds
Greek yoghurt to serve

Put the teabags in a jug, pour in 700ml of boiling water, leave to infuse for 4 minutes then remove the teabags. Put the dried fruit in a saucepan and pour over the tea. Add 1 tbsp of the honey, cinnamon, cloves and orange rind, stir and bring to the boil. Simmer the fruit for 5 minutes then turn off the heat and check for sweetness, adding the remaining honey if you think it needs it. Cover the pan and leave to cool. Remove the cinnamon stick, cloves and orange rind and add the almonds. Refrigerate for at least 2 hours. Spoon into individual glass bowls or dishes and top with a dollop of creamy Greek yoghurt
* I would use standard rather than organic apricots for this recipe because the colour is brighter.

Smoked salmon kedgeree

Kedgeree is an Anglo-Indian dish which stems from the days of the Raj. This party version is based on a relatively new product - lightly smoked salmon which gives it a particularly luxurious flavour. If you can’t find it use organic salmon and add a little bit of smoked salmon at the end when you add the prawns.
Serves 6

3 large fresh eggs
250g undyed skinless, boneless smoked haddock or cod fillet
250g lightly smoked skinless, boneless salmon fillet or ordinary salmon fillet
3 tbsp sunflower oil or other light oil
1 medium onion (about 125-150g) peeled and finely chopped
2-3 tsp good quality mild curry powder or pilau rice seasoning
300g basmatti rice
175g cooked peeled prawns, thawed if frozen
40g soft butter
2-3 tbsp freshly squeezed lemon juice
3 heaped tbsp chopped fresh coriander leaves and a few whole leaves for decoration
Salt and freshly ground black pepper

Bring a small saucepan of water to the boil. Prick the eggs if you have an egg pricker and lower them carefully into the water and boil for 10-12 minutes depending on the size of the eggs. Drain off the water, pour cold running water over the eggs then leave to cool in cold water.
Put the smoked haddock and salmon into a larger pan and pour over just enough cold water to cover. Bring gradually to the boil then once the water is bubbling, draw the pan off the heat and cover it with a lid or a piece of foil. Leave for 5 minutes then carefully remove the fish fillets. Pour the cooking water into a jug up to the 600ml mark and set aside.
Heat the oil in another heavy duty pan or casserole and fry the onion over a moderate heat for about 6-7 minutes until starting to turn dark brown at the edges. Sprinkle in the curry powder or rice seasoning (I use 3 tsp but use 2 if you want a slightly milder flavour). Add the rice, stir again and pour in the reserved water you used for cooking the fish. Bring to the boil then turn the heat right down and cover the pan. Cook for about 15-20 minutes until all the liquid has been absorbed.
Meanwhile shell and quarter the eggs. Set aside six quarters and roughly chop the rest. Flake the fish being very careful to remove any remaining bones. Once the rice is cooked, fork it through and tip in the cooked fish, prawns and eggs, cover the pan and leave for 5 minutes on a very low heat. Turn off the heat, add the butter, fork through, season with the lemon juice and a little salt and pepper if you think it needs it and fork through the chopped coriander. Serve on a warm platter decorated with the quartered eggs and the remaining coriander leaves.
* You can keep the kedgeree covered in the pan for about 15-20 minutes before serving it or transfer to a very low oven and keep it for about 30-40 minutes.

Banana and honey breakfast muffins

Makes about 12 small or 6 larger muffins

50g unsalted butter
2 tbsp clear honey (about 55g)
1 heaped tbsp natural unsweetened yoghurt
About 60ml milk
1/2 tsp vanilla extract
150g plain flour
1 1/2 tsp baking powder
1/2 tsp ground cinnamon
1/4 level tsp salt
1 large egg, lightly beaten
1 medium-ripe banana (yellow rather than green or speckled with black)
Unrefined caster sugar for topping

You’ll need 1 x 12 hole small muffin or tartlet tins and some small paper cases
Pre-heat the oven to 190°C/375°F/Gas 5. Line the hollows in the tin with the paper cases. Gently heat the butter in a pan with the honey. Set aside and cool slightly. Put the yoghurt in a measuring jug and mix in enough milk to bring it to just over the 100ml mark. Stir in the vanilla extract. Sieve the flour into a bowl with the baking powder, cinnamon and salt and hollow out a dip in the centre. Pour the honey and butter mixture, beaten egg and yoghurt and milk into the flour and mix in lightly and swiftly with a large metal spoon to get a rough batter. (Don’t overmix - it doesn’t have to be completely smooth). Peel the banana, slice it thinly into the batter and fold in lightly so that all the slices are coated. Spoon the batter into the muffin cases and sprinkle each with a little caster sugar. Bake for about 20 minutes or until fully risen and well browned. Transfer the muffins to a wire rack and eat as soon as cool enough to handle.

Bacon, onion and cheddar muffins

Makes about 12 small muffins or 6 larger ones

1 tbsp sunflower or other cooking oil
75g cubed pancetta or bacon lardons
1 small onion (about 75g), peeled and finely chopped
50g butter
1 heaped tbsp natural unsweetened yoghurt
About 60ml milk
150g plain flour
1 1/2 tsp baking powder
1/4 level tsp salt
15g finely grated parmesan cheese
1 large egg, lightly beaten
40g coarsely grated mature cheddar cheese

You’ll need 1 x 12 hole small muffin or tartlet tins and some small paper cases

Pre-heat the oven to 190°C/375°F/Gas 5. Line the hollows in the tin with the paper cases. Heat the oil in a small frying pan and fry the pancetta or lardons for a couple of minutes until they start to brown. Add the onion, stir and cook over a low to moderate heat for another 5 minutes until the onion is soft then set aside to cool. Gently melt the butter in another pan and leave to cool. Put the yoghurt in a measuring jug and mix in enough milk to bring it to just over the 100ml mark. . Sieve the flour into a bowl with the baking powder and salt. Add the parmesan and hollow out a dip in the centre. Pour the beaten eggs, melted butter and yoghurt and milk into the flour and mix lightly and swiftly with a large metal spoon to get a rough batter. (Don’t overmix - it doesn’t have to be completely smooth). Fold in the bacon and onions. Spoon the batter into the muffin cases and sprinkle each with a little grated cheddar. Bake for 20-25 minutes or until fully risen and well browned. Transfer the muffins to a wire rack and eat as soon as cool enough to handle.

St Clement’s Punch

A fresh, zesty citrus-based punch that’s packed with vitamin C. It obviously tastes best if you squeeze the fruit yourself but bought freshly squeezed juice is fine if you’re short of time
Serves 4-6

250ml freshly squeezed orange juice (about 4 oranges)
150ml freshly squeezed pink grapefruit juice (1-2 grapefruit)
250ml chilled lemon refresher or traditional lemonade
1 tbsp Grand Marnier (optional)
Slices of orange and lemon to decorate

Simply pour the orange and lemon juice into a jug and top up with the lemon refresher and stir well. Add the Grand Marnier if using, stir again then add a few slices of orange and lemon to the jug and serve

What to drink
I think bubbly is by far the best wine by far for a brunch - champagne if you feel like splashing out but a good sparkling wine is perfectly good. I’d choose a blanc de blancs or sparkling chardonnay at this time of day - or an Italian prosecco. You can also, of course, make my low - or no-alcohol punch - and some fresh juices.

The photo which is not of my version of the salmon kedgeree but another one is © Martin Turzak - Fotolia.com. No reason why you can't add a few shell-on prawns though.

What are the best pairings for pancakes?

If you’re planning a Pancake Day celebration for tomorrow and haven’t yet decided what to drink here are few ideas.

Like pasta the best match for pancakes depends on the topping or filling which can obviously be savoury or sweet. Very sweet - and hot - which can make the choice of an accompanying drink tricky.

Simple sugar and lemon pancakes
The classic British way. To be honest I prefer them on their own or with an aromatic cup of tea such as Lady Grey or Orange Pekoe but a sweet sparkling wine such as Moscato d’Asti or Clairette de Die should work if you don’t overdo the lemon. A sparkling ice-wine (the Canadian winery Inniskillin does one) would probably be perfect

Pancakes with fresh berries like strawberries, raspberries or blueberries
A sparkling rosé (or, of course, rosé champagne) with a touch of sweetness pairs well with this lighter style of pancake topping/filling. You could also try a sparkling framboise made with a raspberry liqueur topped up with sparkling wine.

Pancakes with golden or maple syrup
Tricky especially if the topping is maple syrup and the dish also includes bacon. Black tea or a black Americano coffee for me but them I don’t have a particularly sweet tooth. If you do you could always try an Australian liqueur muscat

Pancakes with chocolate sauce
A strong sweet red wine like port would probably work but might be just too much of a good thing. Black - or white - coffee again, if anything.

Pancakes with a cherry, apricot or other fruit compote
Very good with a complementary fruit beer - kriek with cherry-filled pancakes, a peach or apricot-flavoured beer with apricot filled ones. With apple and cinnamon filled crepes you could serve a conventional dessert wine - cooked apples suit most of them but I'd be tempted by a youngish Tokaji

Savoury pancakes with cheese and ham or spinach
Dry or sparkling cider is a great match for Breton-style pancakes, particularly if they’re made with buckwheat. Otherwise a smooth dry white wine such as a Pinot Blanc, Soave or Gavi will all work fine

Smoked salmon blinis
Champagne, sparkling wine or iced vodka

Crispy duck pancakes
Not a traditional Shrove Tuesday treat but while we’re in pancake mode . . . Hard to beat a good Pinot Noir

Image By Melica at shutterstock.com

An alternative Burns Night supper for six

Haggis may be traditional fare for Burns' Night but let's face it, it's not everyone's cup of tea. So here's a Scottish inspired menu that I suspect you'll probably enjoy rather more (unless you're born and bred Scots, of course...)

Menu:

Warm mussel, leek and saffron tarts
Venison sausages with red wine and rosemary gravy, celeriac and potato mash and swede and carrot pure
Luxury bread pudding with whisky sauce

Warm mussel, leek and saffron tarts

These easy tarts (just a puff pastry base, in fact) were inspired by a visit to the Isle of Lewis off the north-west coast of Scotland where they grow wonderful small sweet mussels.

Serves 6

1 kg (2.2lb) fresh mussels
1 375g packed ready rolled all butter puff pastry (if you can find it I like the Dorset butter pastry which is available in Waitrose)
50 ml (2 fl oz) dry white wine
A good pinch of saffron (about 20 strands)
1 medium to large leek (about 200g/7oz)
40g (1 1/2 oz) butter
1 1/2 tbsp plain flour
50ml (2 fl oz) double cream
Freshly ground black pepper and sea salt to taste
A couple of sprigs of fresh parsley

Although these free-form ‘tarts’ look very impressive the beauty of them is that you don’t need to be remotely skilled at handling pastry to knock the dish together.

Tip the mussels into a sinkful of cold water and swirl them around. Remove them to a colander, change the water, replace them and go through each one with a small, sharp knife removing the slightly hairy looking ‘beard’ with a good yank. Place each one as you finish in a large bowl of water and leave to soak for at least half an hour. Drain them and discard any that are still open.

Preheat your oven to 220°C/425°F/Gas 7. Roll out the pastry. Cut lengthways into two then cut each half into three evenly sized squares. Place on a lightly greased baking sheet, prick with a fork then bake for 10-12 minutes until golden brown.

Bring 50ml (2 fl oz) of white wine or water to the boil in a large lidded pan then tip in all the mussels. Give the pan a good shake, put the lid on firmly then cook over a high heat for about 3 minutes shaking the pan a couple of times. Take off the lid and check that the mussels are open. If not replace the lid and cook another minute. As soon as they’re cooked remove the mussels from their shells and set aside. Strain the cooking liquor and measure out 150ml (5 fl oz). Then take another 2 tbsp and soak the saffron strands in a small bowl.

Thoroughly clean and finely chop the leek into rounds. Heat the butter slowly in a heavy bottomed pan then cook the leek for 10-15 minutes or until soft. Add the flour, stir and cook for a minute then add the reserved mussel liquor, bring to the boil, stirring and simmer for 5 minutes until thick. Strain and add the infused saffron water and the cream. Stir, then tip in the mussels and heat through for 2-3 minutes. Check the seasoning adding freshly ground pepper and a little salt to taste.

Place a square of pastry on each plate then spoon over the mussel mixture, dividing it evenly between each plate. Finely scissor snip some parsley over each plate and serve immediately.

Suggested wine match: a lightly oaked Chardonnay or Viognier

Venison sausages with red wine and rosemary gravy

You can cook your sausages in the oven but I prefer to do them slowly in a pan so that they go all sticky and gooey.

Serves 6

3 light olive oil or sunflower oil
900g (2 lb) venison sausages
For the gravy
2 tbsp light olive oil or sunflower oil
25g (1 oz) butter
3 medium red onions, peeled and finely sliced
2 cloves of garlic, peeled and crushed
1 rounded tbsp finely chopped fresh rosemary leaves
1 rounded tbsp tomato paste
2 level tbsp plain flour
250ml (9 fl oz) full bodied red wine
250ml (9 fl oz) fresh beef stock or stock made with half an organic beef stock cube
Salt, freshly ground black pepper and tomato ketchup to taste

First put on the gravy. Put a large saucepan over a moderate heat, add the oil and then the butter. When the butter has melted tip in the onions, stir thoroughly then put the lid on the pan and cook on a low heat, stirring occasionally, for about 15-20 minutes until the onions are soft and golden.

Stir in the garlic and rosemary, cook for a few seconds then stir in the tomato paste and flour. Add the red wine and stock, bring to the boil then turn the heat right down and simmer for 15-20 minutes, adding a little water if it gets too thick.

Meanwhile heat a large frying pan (or two smaller ones), add the remaining oil and fry the sausages over a low heat, turning them frequently. These should also take about 20 minutes.

Check the seasoning of the gravy, adding salt and pepper to taste and a little tomato ketchup if you think it needs sweetening. (Yes, really! Serve the sausages with the gravy spooned over.

Suggested wine match: Any robust full-bodied red will do. I'd probably go for a Syrah or Shiraz just as I would for haggis.

Celeriac and potato mash

You can prepare this - and the swede and carrot pure below - ahead and reheat it just before serving.

1 bulb of celeriac (about 500-600g/1lb 2oz-1lb 5oz)
A couple of pieces of lemon peel
500g-600g/1lb 2oz-1lb 5oz boiling potatoes (e.g. King Edwards)
3 tbsp extra virgin olive oil
1 heaped tbsp crème fraîche
Salt and freshly ground black pepper

Give the celeriac a good scrub then cut off the tough outer skin. The easiest way to do this is to prop it on a chopping board and cut downwards with a sharp knife. Once you’ve got most of the skin off, cut it in quarters then hold one in your hand and cut off any remaining bits of skin with a small knife. Cut into large cubes, put in a saucepan with a couple of bits of lemon peel and cover with boiling water. When it comes to the boil add salt then cook for about 15-20 minutes until soft. Drain well, reserving a little of the cooking water.

Peel the potatoes and cut them into equal sized pieces. Cover with cold water, bring to the boil, add salt and cook until you can stick a knife through them without any resistance. Drain thoroughly and return to the pan to dry. Put the celeriac in a food processor and whizz until smooth, adding a little of the cooking water if it seems too dry and lumpy.Cut the potato into rough chunks then mash with a fork or potato masher until smooth. Add the olive oil and creme fraiche and beat well. Tip the pureed celeriac into the potato mash, mix well and season generously with salt and pepper.

Swede and carrot purée

Swedes on their own are a bit of an acquired taste so I like to add carrots - preferably organic ones which are much more flavourful - to the mixture.

1 medium swede (about 500-550g) peeled and cut into small cubes
3 medium carrots (about 250-275g), peeled and sliced
1 litre hot vegetable stock made with 1 tbsp vegetable bouillon powder or a vegetable stock cube
25g butter
1 tbsp low fat creme fraiche
Freshly ground black pepper + a little grated nutmeg
Salt and lemon juice to taste

Put the cubed swede and carrot in a medium sized saucepan and cover with the hot vegetable stock. Bring to the boil and simmer for about 20 minutes until the vegetables are soft. Strain, reserving the cooking water and put the vegetables in a food processor. Whizz them until smooth. Add the butter, creme fraiche and 1-2 tbsp of the vegetable cooking water and whizz again until smooth and silky. Season with plenty of black pepper, a little nutmeg and salt and/or lemon juice to taste. Reheat gently and serve.

Luxury bread pudding with whisky sauce

What you need for this recipe is a old-fashioned loaf with real texture and flavour If you don’t have a good baker nearby go for a healthy sliced loaf such as Vogel’s honey and oat bran with barley). Other ingredients are up to you depending on what have available but include a good selection of dried fruits. I think figs are particularly nice and the apple gives it lightness. The only ingredient you can’t do without is whisky, which makes the most wickedly delicious sauce.

Serves 6-8

100g (3 1/2 oz) dried figs
125g (4 1/2 oz) mixed dried fruit
100g (3 1/2 oz) large seedless raisins
2 tbsp whisky
250g (9 oz) two day old bread from a traditional style loaf
300ml (10 fl oz) full cream milk
1 medium (125g) eating apple (Cox’s are ideal)
The grated rind of half a lemon
2 tbsp coarse cut seville orange marmalade
75g (3 oz) light vegetable suet
2 tsp mixed spice
50g (2 oz) soft dark brown sugar
1 large egg, lightly beaten
A little grated nutmeg
For the whisky sauce
25g (1 oz) butter
60g (2 1/2 oz) soft dark brown sugar
3-4 tbsp whisky
142 ml (5 fl oz) whipping cream

Chop or scissor-snip the figs into small pieces and place in a bowl with the mixed dried fruit and raisins. Pour over 2 tbsp of whisky, stir well and put to one side. Crumble the bread into another large bowl and pour over the milk. Mix thoroughly and leave to soak for 30 minutes.

Peel and core the apple and grate roughly into the dried fruit. Add the finely grated lemon rind and marmalade and stir well. Mash the bread mixture vigorously with a fork to break down any lumps then add the fruit mixture, suet, mixed spice and sugar. Stir well, add the beaten egg and stir again. Turn into a lightly greased square 12.5 by 12.5cm (7 x 7 inch) baking tin, smooth the top and grate over a little nutmeg. Bake the bread pudding in a preheated oven ( 180° C/350° F/Gas 4) for 1 1/2 hours or until the top is nicely browned.

Just before serving gently warm the butter and sugar for the sauce in a small heavy bottomed saucepan. When the sugar has dissolved add the whisky and cream and bring to a slow simmer. Cook for about five minutes until the sauce begins to thicken. Cut the bread pudding into chunks, pour over the whisky sauce and serve.

Suggested wine match: Well if you're going to drink anything I'd make it whisky rather than wine but with the rich whisky-laced sauce I'm not sure you need it!

photo - obviously not of the original dish (sorry) - ©Artem Shadrin @fotolia.com

Lyndey Milan's Aussie-style barbecue lunch

One of the highlights of my trip to Australia a few years ago to celebrate the World’s 50 Best restaurant awards was lunch at one of their best known cookery writers Lyndey Milan’s in Sydney

We all sat round a big table and ate this marvellous menu to show off Aussie produce. I loved the structure of the meal - a few oysters to start with, the incredibly fresh, zesty marinated fish, the richly spiced barbecued lamb and salad then simple platters of cheese and fruit - so easy to do at home.

I persuaded Lyndey to give us two of the recipes so do give them a try.

Coriander cured seabass with daikon, shiso and a ginger shallot dressing

Lyndey attributes this recipe to Time Browne, executive chef of the Sydney showground but has given it a couple of twists of her own. She used barramundi in the original version but says you could equally well use any firm-textured fish. You can also use whatever micro leaves you can get hold of.

Serves 6

Ingredients:

500gm seabass fillet (no skin or bones)

Cure

1 bunch coriander

100g rock salt

100g caster sugar

Zest of 1 lime

Salad

1 Daikon radish

1 cucumber

1 punnet micro shiso leaves

1 punnet micro mizuna lettuce

2 tablespoons toasted sesame seeds

Dressing

2 tbsp fresh ginger

6 shallots

1 tablespoon lime juice

¼ cup soy sauce

½ tsp caster sugar

2 tsp sesame oil

3 tbsp grape seed oil

Method:

In a food processor blend the coriander, salt, sugar and lime zest to a smooth paste. Rub the paste all over the barramundi and refrigerate for 3 hours to cure. (Be sure to cover all of the fish to ensure even curing).

Using a moist clean cloth, rub all the paste off the barramundi.

Cut barramundi into thin slices.

For the salad:

Shave the daikon and cucumber into a bowl. Add the sesame seeds and toss lightly.

For the dressing:

Thinly slice the ginger and shallot. Place in a heat proof bowl with lime juice, soy and sugar

Heat the sesame and grape seed oils together in a pan until they reach smoking point. Pour over the ginger and shallot mixture. (Be careful as the oil is hot). This will sear the ginger and shallots and bring all the flavours together. Allow to cool.

Arrange seabass slices and salad on a plate. Spoon the dressing over the barramundi and salad. Scatter with micro leaves and sprinkle with extra toasted sesame seeds.

Macadamia crusted butterflied lamb with 'okkah'

The okkah (Australian dukkah) for this recipe is inspired by my friend chef Ray Kersh from the legendary Edna’s Table which championed indigenous ingredients for 30 years..

Prep: 20min

Cooking: 20 min plus resting time

Serves: 4 as a main or 8 as part of a menu

1.5kg butterflied shoulder of lamb

2 tbls (40ml) extra virgin olive oil

Macadamia Okkah

1/3 cup unsalted macadamias

1 tablespoon sesame seeds

3 teaspoons coriander seeds

3 teaspoons cumin seeds

2 teaspoons wattle seeds (optional)

1 teaspoon fennel seeds

1 teaspoon sea salt Flakes

coarsely ground black pepper or native pepperberry

1. For macadamia okkah; preheat oven to 180’C (160’C fan) place macadamia, sesame, coriander, cumin, wattle and fennel seeds on a paper-lined oven tray. Toast for 5 – 8 minutes, or until lightly fragrant. Cool then process with salt and pepper. This makes 1 ¼ cups.

2. Pre-heat BBQ to high. If lamb is uneven in thickness, beat with a rolling pin or meat mallet between two double sheets of plastic wrap. It may be easier to cut into two flattish pieces. Rub with oil and then rub all over with around ½ cup okkah.

3. Seal lamb for 5 minutes on each side, or until browned. Reduce heat to medium low and continue to cook for another 10 minutes on each side, turning as often as needed to prevent burning. Cook more for well done, less for rare.

6. Remove lamb and rest, loosely cover with foil for 10 minutes. Slice thickly and sprinkle with some extra okkah if desired

Lyndey’s Note: this recipe makes 1 ¼ cups okkah but only ½ cup is needed for this recipe. Store the remainder in an airtight container or serve with fresh bread and extra virgin olive oil.

© Lyndey Milan. This recipe first appeared in Selector Magazine Nov/Dec 2016

WARNING: this recipe includes nuts

What to drink:

Lyndey suggests a sauvignon blanc or a sake with the seabass but in fact we drank a McLaren Vale Fiano on the day. A Hunter Valley semillon would also work well. With the lamb we drank a Stargazer pinot noir from Tasmania which was a really good match.